The best deck in town is accompanied intelligent service and impressive fish.

The Scene
It's the Titanic, with no iceberg in sight. Floor-to-ceiling glass windows provide even center tables with the feeling of sailing off into the sunset. Warm, light colors create a soothing background, and plush seating keeps you comfortable through luxuriously drawn-out meals. Diners are a mix of romantic couples and expense-account diners--no one seems to arrive alone. Service is attentive and knowledgeable.

The Food
Fresh shellfish from the bar provides plenty of appetizing starters, but don't miss the delectably sweet and crunchy spinach salad. Match one of four sauces with a plainly grilled fish steak for a fresh, simple meal. For steak lovers, the best option is the tenderloin, served with sweet onion ragout. Side dishes are sized for several people--skip dull fingerlings, but double up on chipotle-seasoned sweet corn. For dessert, choose a treat from the outstanding list of brandies and scotches.

The casual cousin of El Gaucho tones down the glitz and the price at its waterfront location.

In Short
Chef Joe Labatt keeps things simple with dry-aged cuts of Angus beef and straightforward accompaniments such as jumbo shrimp cocktail, home-style mashed potatoes, or romaine salads pungent with blue cheese. A Starbucks-spiked rub merits national attention; it's a favorite with many locals, too. Wine choices are limited, but the full bar features a generous selection of signature martinis.