As the only place in town to get dim sum, this Westside Chinese restaurant goes beyond the call of duty.

The Scene
Golden Wok's interior is stylishly accented with painted bamboo and calligraphic upholstery and houses spacious booths and tables swathed in a warm light. Dim sum (Cantonese for ''a bit of heart'') is the reason to visit Golden Wok and while the presentation isn't authentic--typically waitresses roll by with carts of mouthwatering morsels from which patrons choose--the unique tastes are undiminished and hold up well in comparison to the great dim sum offerings available in New York and elsewhere.

The Food
Dim sum choices include a variety of dumplings (fried and steamed), shrimp balls and semi-sweet pastries. Don't leave without trying the greasy, potato-esque taro root cakes and the sesame balls filled with a sharply sweet bean curd. The dough around the bao dishes is a little dry, but overall the various dim sum dishes are fresh and flavorful.