Tuscany below ground in Philadelphia

The Scene
Chef/proprietor Giuseppi Giulini hails from the beautiful Italian province of Tuscany, where any restaurant called ''buca'' (which means cave in Italian) is underground. This La Buca, like its Tuscan cousins, is true to form. Though it's down a long flight of steps, the space doesn't feel like a basement. Walls in the main dining room are startlingly frescoed with scenes of ancient Italy, looking every bit like the work of an ancient Florentine master painter.

The Food
The food, too, is true to Giulini's Tuscan origins. Waiters in tuxes stand at attention and present patrons with a cart displaying raw seafood selections. (The house specialty is the catch of the day, grilled.) Also try the crespelle, light pasta crepes with spinach and cheese, topped with an equally light tomato sauce. Be prepared, however, for a hefty check, depending on the choice. No matter what else is on the menu, save room for ethereal rum cake and superb espresso.