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A boutique Japanese restaurant with an inventive menu on an unlikely block.

The Scene
If all the chefs and waitstaff sat down, they'd fill every seat in this classy family-run Japanese stronghold. The customers here aren't messing around: they didn't come this far east for nothing, and most contemplate their food quietly. The three seats at the sushi bar afford the most contact with the solicitous staff.

The Food
Despite a menu that seems larger than the restaurant, great care goes into the preparation of every dish. The sushi offerings are limited in number, but manage to result in near-infinite permutations of rolls, with the ''Fantastic Ama Ebi Roll'' topping the charts (crabmeat salad, avocado, flying fish roe, and sweet shrimp). Gyoza (dumplings) have wonderfully delicate skins, Usuzukuri (thinly sliced fluke with ponzu sauce) offers refreshing acidity, and the restaurant's riff on tuna tartare is emboldened by crunchy bits of puffed rice.