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From Citysearch.com

By doing big things in a small space, this spot proves it's all in the details.

The Scene
This intimate room (only 11 tables) in the renovated Iroquois Hotel is subtly swank: gentle light flatters and soft music swings. Charming and capable young servers don't need to rush because they never have far to go. Quietly, you feel attended to.

The Food
There are no avant-garde ingredients or novelty combinations on this French-inspired menu; everything is done with grace, balance and care. If it wasn't so refined, you might call it comfort food. Sauces and reductions are a strong point and vegetables taste of the garden. Acorn squash wontons in herb broth, rabbit ''coq au vin,'' and roast lamb with pancetta are all excellent choices. Little touches that appear at first to be decorative frills--from a thatch of spicy sprouts on top of the roast lamb to the dense raspberry puree painted under the tarte Tatin--add strong, clear flavors, perfectly matched to the dishes.

Message from Triomphe:

The name says it all at this peaceful French Eclectic yearling. The superb cooking is enough of a surprise that advocates talk it up for both business and romance.

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