What you get in this sprawling smokehouse--besides stuffed--is a heady tour of barbecue across America.

The Scene
At Virgil's, carnivores of every shape and color abandon all caution and happily shovel in as much pungent barbecued meat, pork and chicken as they can stomach. The two-level restaurant is a haven for groups, as evidenced by the occasionally deafening noise level.

The Food
The spice-infused meat is tenderly cooked, then doused in smoky, tomato-based sauces. Selections include crab cakes, fried catfish, sliced brisket, Georgia chicken fried steak, po' boys, 10 different barbecue platters and intensely piquant Memphis barbecue beans. Balance the meal with airy, softball-sized buttermilk biscuits with honey-butter or thick, velvety collard greens.