Stellar steaks and a festive scene at a Theater District winner.

The Scene
It's big, brawny, bibulous, and has a swagger that befits the popular coast-to-coast steakhouse chain. The wood-paneled bar, scrawled with caricatures of well-known habitues past and present, is aswarm at cocktail hour with both theatergoers and corporate tipplers hunkered down for the night. It can get frenzied in the dining room, although high-backed wooden booths deflect some of the roar.

The Food
Palm dry ages its steaks--as opposed to vacuum packing--and the result is evident. The ribeye is intensely flavored and thoroughly succulent, as is the well-charred New York strip and the monstrous porterhouse. Double-cut lamb chops are first-rate as well. Seafood, for those who are grudgingly along for the carnivorous joy ride, is fine, especially the moist and mustardy crab cakes. Starters are predictable--you could go with the better-than-average Caesar salad, fried calamari or the excellent oysters. Among the confectionery barbells offered, chocolate pecan pie is the way to go.