A 'round-the-clock deli that's worth visiting anytime.

The Scene
There are no rules at Sarge's: It's open 24/7 and serves every kind of food--from potato latkes to chicken and ribs--to every kind of customer, from businesspeople at breakfast to recuperating club kids at 4am. It looks like an old-style Jewish deli, with cheeky waitresses to match, but it's really a crossroads of all of New York City.

The Food
For the most part, Sarge's New York classic menu is first-rate. The best dishes are the sandwiches, like the triple-decker fantasy of corned beef, tongue and chopped liver, and the traditional deli entrees, like beef flank simmered in mushroom-barley soup. Breakfast foods, especially omelettes, are good as well. Like any restaurant that attempts to cook everything, however, there are hits and misses--the fried jumbo shrimp are surprisingly good, but barbecue ribs are predictably poor.