Restaurant Information:

Hours

Mon-Fri 5pm-12:30am Sat 11am-3pm; 5pm-12:30am Sun 10am-3pm; 5:30pm-11pm

A Finnish chef breathes new life into New York's French-Austrian landmark.

The Scene
This cozy, upscale haunt once catered to a cutting-edge art crowd, which explains the blush-inducing nude murals. Mirrors multiply the frolicking wood nymph paintings and plush yet stodgy decor, making the two small dining rooms and bar seem larger than actual size. Owners George and Jenifer Lang oversee an expert team of venerable waiters who pamper tourists, moneyed regulars, and, increasingly, serious foodies.

The Food
Rather than cast aside the old French standbys, chef Ari Neimenin has discreetly updated them while adding intriguing new ones. Brown-buttered Dover Sole is still succulent, and fat-laced pot au feu is rich as ever in beefy consommé with baby vegetables. The famed ''salmon-four-ways'' has spawned a fifth: don't miss the plate of house-cured, poached, smoked, gravlaxed and tartared fish. Freshness prevails, from crisp endive-stilton salad to steely sardines, char-grilled with a zippy lemon-tomato salad. Top prize goes to tea-smoked duckling with buttery confit and braised, cinnamon-stoked cabbage.