Chelsea pre-movie favorite for reliable fare and a flirty gay scene.

The Scene
Though often called a ''gay restaurant,'' East of Eighth caters to a diverse clientele, ranging from the flamboyant bar crowd to straight-laced retiree couples from the nearby apartment complexes coming by for the early-bird special. An extremely sociable staff makes everyone feel comfortable. The outdoor garden is open year-round (heated in winter).

The Food
This international-eclectic menu includes some stellar standouts--most notably, well-made thin-crust mini-pizzas. The four-cheese version cleverly combines fresh and smoked mozzarella with goat cheese and Gorgonzola. Grilled firecracker wasabi shrimp with miso is a house favorite--a generous helping of piquant glazed shrimp surround a mound of basmati rice and snow peas. Most menu items, however, are standard variations on general American cuisine (meat loaf, chicken potpie, pork chops). Portions are hearty and drinks are stiff.