With outstanding American fare and impeccable service, it sets the bar for neighborhood dining.

The Scene
From the engaging and frank wine service to the homemade truffles that arrive at the end of your meal (personally delivered by the pastry chef, no less), service is strikingly deft for such a casual, comfortable restaurant. The two dining rooms, decorated with wooden tables and chairs and surrounded by exposed brick, are flush with good energy and conversation.

The Food
Chef Marco Canora's cooking has an unusual clarity and restraint. Raw snapper could easily be overwhelmed by rosemary and lemon; in his hands, the combination is ethereal. Celery leaves would be decorative elsewhere; here, they're used to freshen a dish of red wine-braised octopus. Entrees range from excellent (braised veal with savory roasted sweetbreads) to very good (luscious monkfish osso buco). The milk chocolate and pecan tarts--both superb--are bested by the peanut brittle and sweet potato ice creams with which they're served.