It's not your Mom's mac-and-cheese at this comfort-food nosh spot.

The exterior of this Nolita eatery, comprised of a row of floor-to-ceiling windows and a difficult-to-read sign, is unassuming. Trendy touches--boxy wine racks, oddly shaped banquets--fill the space, along with more vintage speakeasy nods like classic green-striped wallpaper. The boisterous crowd is decidedly more Soho chichi than Bowery barfly. The menu works best when, like the decor, it strives to have it both ways, delivering tricked-out versions of comfort-food classics. Entrees, however, are uneven. Desserts end on an up-note.