Bedford Street is home to this chic Greek eatery, sibling to Soho's popular pint-sized Snack.
The Scene As befits its Soho pedigree, the 50-seat storefront is spare and sleek, with patterned beige banquettes, ebony-trimmed white walls and black-and-white photographs of rural Greece. But the eager-to-please staff warms the place up, even if their snappy all-black uniforms can make it tricky to tell the waiters from fellow diners.
The Food The kitchen likes to give Mediterranean dishes a contemporary twist: Moussaka is transformed into an airy roulade of sheer potato slices wrapped around lush sauteed eggplant. Waiters suggest eating family style, but silky, salty taramosalata (carp roe spread), fennel-punched grilled sausage topped with sweet cubes of pear compote and dreamy braised lamb are too good to share. Overall, the menu tips the balance to the sweet side, but fig lovers will be in heaven, from the sherry-fig vinaigrette drizzled over grilled summer squash to the dessert combo of wine-poached figs with pistachio-scattered fresh sheep's milk cheese.