An exceptional neighborhood Mexican spot that deserves more than a neighborhood following.

The Scene
The original Los Pollitos is a takeout joint in Sunset Park; this Slope spin-off presents an expanded but similarly inexpensive menu in slightly more decorous surroundings. It's a takeout joint, too, but has candlelit tables set up across from the stainless-steel counter. The more than gracious waitstaff win you over with their obvious pride: They know this is a special place.

The Food
The long menu offers standard Mexican dishes, executed with rarely seen care and skill. Bypass tacos and burritos in favor of gorditas--swollen corn tortillas, covered with tomatillo salsa and rich cream. South American additions to the menu, like perfectly fried green plantains and garlicky pork, are uniformly successful. The crowning achievement is the roast chicken, which attracts crowds from all over the city.