A little piece of L.A. pushes its way east with its signature wood-fired pizzas and inventive pastas.

In Short
Pizzas gave Spago its original cache, and they're still the most popular items on the menu. The wood-fired oven gives the medium-thin dough nice crustiness, lending textural contrast to the myriad toppings available. Other menu items: Caesar salad, thin corn blinis with dill cream and golden caviar. Portions are small; larger dishes include pizzas, pastas and salads.