A tour of the sizzling kebabs and piquant chutneys of Afghan cuisine.

The Scene
Cozy and casual: College students, elderly couples and families with young children sit side by side in the flickering candlelight, spider plants droop from the windows, and the air sizzles with recorded Afghan music and the aroma of spices. Since ancient times, the Khyber Pass has served as a gateway into Afghanistan.

The Food
The chefs use cayenne, cumin, coriander, garlic and mint to coax the exotic flavors from slow-simmered stews and grilled kebabs. Offerings include marinated chicken broiled on a skewer and topped with chutney, stewed lamb and kofta (balls of ground beef spiced with onions, coriander and hot peppers). But vegetarians won't get headed off: The menu includes several meatless dishes, including an excellent kachaloo (potatoes and green peas spiced with turmeric and garlic) and bouranee baunjaun (eggplant cooked in tomato sauce until tender). The short dessert menu includes sticky-sweet baklava and puddings.