Village Fish

With little by way of atmosphere or decor (think paper placemats and chalkboard menus), the Village Fish maintains a loyal clientele thanks to its top-shelf seafood, almost all of which arrives fresh daily. Ideal for a casual, satisfying meal among family or friends, the restaurant draws standing-room-only crowds on weekends. Friendly waiters keep the vibe upbeat, as does the open kitchen (which provides an occasional, colorful burst of flame). Diners hoping for a rare pacific fish or highfalutin sauces are the only ones disappointed by straightforward preparations of familiar favorites like swordfish steaks and freshly shucked oysters. Diners select a fish as well as its method of preparation (broiled, mesquite-grilled, or sauteed) and accompaniment (fries, pasta, or salad). Most of the Sicilian-style dishes aren't even plated; Mussels Roberto arrives in the same sizzling pan in which it was cooked.