The city's most inventive Indian restaurant resides in Harvard Square, courtesy of one of India's most famous chefs.

The Scene
Executive Chef Wali Ahmad, popular star of the acclaimed Indian TV show ''Khana Khazana'' (''Food Treasures''), chose a simple, subterranean Harvard Square dining room as the ideal site for introducing his unique offerings to American palates. Casually dressed academics and Indian couples fill the sparsely decorated room to navigate Ahmad's challenging menu. Attentive waiters keep wine and water glasses filled with quiet efficiency.

The Food
Forget what you know about Indian cuisine--there are no vindaloos or tikka masalas on the menu--and buckle up for a culinary adventure. Jhinga meethi is a scintillating pot of fenugreek-spiced shrimps, while a dish of shabnam purluft displays delicate button mushrooms stuffed with savory homemade cheese and grilled in a tandoor oven. From quail to scallops to lobster, nontraditional ingredients dot the menu. Vegetarians are well-served, with a bevy of tantalizing offerings--eggplant in cashew gravy, okra seasoned with ginger and onion.