Moneyed couples and highbrow academics in search of French-accented, modern American cuisine head to Cambridge, off Central Square.

The Scene
Cambridge gourmands have never been known to back down from a culinary challenge, and Salts' menu provides a breathtaking number of terms (''pithivier,'' ''mirepoix'') that catch unprepared patrons off guard. Less challenging is the simple dining room, which is dominated by an imposing table of cheeses that sits dead center. Pleasant servers help navigate a challenging wine list that includes a surprising number of half bottles. Fresh flowers and flickering candles add to the atmosphere.

The Food
The ever-changing menu--best described as French-tinged, modern American cuisine--incorporates a notable amount of local, organic ingredients. Citrus-marinated hamachi with slices of blood orange is typical of the exceptionally light starters. Those who don't splurge on a whole roasted duck--boneless and prepared for two--enjoy a ballantine of free-range chicken with rich foie gras stuffing and pomme puree. Lemon souffle tart with creamy lemon curd provides a tangy finishing note.