Harvard Square icon pulls all the strings for a near-perfect pizza.

The Scene
Great minds of several generations have sought sustenance at Pinocchio's, or ''the Noch,'' as local students dub this Harvard Square legend. Seating is tight at the plastic-topped tables arrayed around a support post, and traffic flow to place an order at the counter is always confused. But it's a high-energy, upbeat spot to munch a slice among the undergrads cramming Plato and Planck.

The Food
Pizza dough is made fresh daily in the tiny kitchen. The regular crust is Abruzzi-perfect--neither the blackened cracker of ''gourmet'' houses nor the doughy blob of pizza chains. Dough-lovers should opt for the pricier deep-dish Sicilian. Both feature a bright red sauce and adequate (rather than gooey) cheese--classics in the old style. Because the bread is so fresh, subs are stupendous, with a steak-and-cheese that could stand with the fare at Geno's in South Philly. Tasty baked ziti with meatballs easily fuels an all-nighter.