Well-executed Chinese classics and Sichuan delicacies (like chilli-doused beef tendons) bring spicy-flavored distinction to this affordable Brookline Village stand.

Atmosphere? Other than a fish tank, there's not much to look at. Service? Speedy waiters prefer to be seen and not heard. Why, then, do so many Asian-American families make the trek here to Brookline Village? The answer lies in this restaurant's plates of julienned jellyfish, sliced beef tendon and other Sichuan delicacies. Diners weaned on familiar favorites like kung pao chicken aren't disappointed with the kitchen's dependable interpretations. Nor are patrons who enjoy spicy Sichuan cuisine (over half the menu is marked in spice-denoting red). Standouts include tender rabbit (served with a fiery chili vinaigrette) and whole roasted duck of a quality more frequently found in Chinatown.