Assaggio

The Scene
Don't be surprised to find patrons looking toward the sky. In the tiny upstairs dining room, an impressive mural of the Zodiac signs shines down on tables. In the low-ceilinged basement, faux grapevines dangle dangerously close to the heads of taller diners. Both rooms are boisterous and prove to be more romantic on slower nights. Service, especially from the bar, is relaxed and sometimes excruciatingly slow.

The Food
Rather than drawing from a specific region of Italy, Assaggio's menu offers a range of pastas, meats and wood-grilled offerings. Appetizers rely on standard seafood (steamed mussels and calamari), while salads are hearty and more inventive than typical North End fare. Vitello francese (battered veal medallions in white wine lemon sauce), is delicate and lightly paired with a pile of potatoes and spinach. Seek out the signature Pollo all'Assaggio (chicken stuffed with proscuitto, eggplant, mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes). The impressive wine list boasts more than 200 sturdy choices.