Closed June 8, 2002.

Uberchef Lydia Shire's extravagantly creative endeavor still deserves its top-notch rating.

The Scene
A casually dressed upscale clientele of urbanites, suburbanites and tourists. Biba averages three nationally known celebrity patrons a week. International and chic decor notwithstanding, it's still a comfortable place.

The Food
Expect adventurous creations like charcoal-broiled prime rib with beet risotto. The nice thing about the menu, other than its originality (categories are meat, fish, starch, legumina and, yes, offal), is that you can order light and affordable if you wish--$14 for taramasalata, for instance, in lieu of a two-pound lobster with Scotch whiskey butter ($39)--and no one will look askance. It's a good way to keep pace with the kitchen's ever-evolving enthusiasms, which embrace every culinary culture under the sun.