The Hotel Commonwealth's surprisingly adventurous in-house bistro provides Kenmore Square with an all-hours spot for a relaxed meal.

Like a bistro on steroids, Eastern Standard provides its patrons, many of whom are well-heeled out-of-towners, with a bevy of seating options. While there's an exceptionally lengthy marble bar and a stylish private room, most diners stick to the high-ceilinged dining room's red leather booths or seating on Kenmore Square's largest sidewalk patio. Courteous servers patrol all corners, and given the restaurant's mammoth size, it guarantees a quiet, relaxing spot for a business breakfast or lunch. In short, the menu leans towards straightforward comfort fare and fresh seafood, with several eye-catching oddities thrown into the mix. Standout items include stellar mussels (in tomato, fennel and white wine broth), salt cod fritters, roasted bone marrow, sage-roasted chicken, and juicy bistro burgers. Homemade sorbet and authentic cinammon sugar zeppole prove popular among desserts.