Taranta Cucina Meridonale

The Scene
One of the neighborhood's most-expansive restaurants, Taranta splits its vast dining space between three levels. Tambourines dangle from rustic, exposed-brick walls in tribute to the Tarantella, the traditional Southern-Italian dance from which the restaurant takes its name. At peak hours, the high ceilings don't help the noise levels in the otherwise mellow, romantic setting. Jovial, unobtrusive and enthusiastic service is faultless. A somewhat limited but well-chosen wine list and impressive selection of after-dinner liqueurs highlight the drink options.

The Food
Taranta's seasonal menu meshes Latin American ingredients with Italian fare, yielding dishes like cassava root gnocchi or ravioli stuffed with duck confit and lucuma fruit. Homemade pasta dishes (artisan-made fusilli with pancetta, onion, smoked sweet peppers and roasted tomatoes, all baked in parchment paper) are not to be missed. Pan-roasted baby chicken with Peruvian asparagus in a sauce of drunken plums, roasted shallots and panca chili personifies the kitchen's unique approach.