Sophisticated but not stuffy, this upscale suburban spot puts the fun back in fine dining.

The Scene
If Gabriel Viti ever gives up his day job as chef/owner of Gabriel's, he could probably get into politics. Resplendent in his chef whites and toque, Viti works the room like a pro, greeting even first-time customers like old friends. The mood is relaxed, and so is the space: cheerful, intimate, and elegant, with red- and green-striped booths accented with mahogany and etched glass.

The Food
You don't need to be a gourmand to appreciate Gabriel's French-Italian fare, which forgoes fussy ingredients in favor of familiar, comforting flavors and presentations. Daubed with zesty grainy mustard, cold steamed artichoke leaves fan out on a plate--delicate, delicious finger food. One excellent pasta pairs twists of gemelli with a fresh, flavorful mix of green beans, sun-dried tomato, pine nuts and pesto. A dark, savory thyme sauce brings out the full, slightly gamy flavor of roasted rack of lamb; in contrast, roasted Alaskan halibut is light and sweet, accented with a medley of tomato and crunchy fennel in a green and black olive vinaigrette.