Hearty, traditional French fare draws a loyal crowd to this north Evanston neighborhood favorite.

The Scene
Set on a picturesque, tree-lined street, this convivial special-occasion spot draws families, couples and NU students with kids in tow. Hardwood floors, vintage French posters and soft music give the place a comfortably rustic vibe; friendly sure-fire service keeps meals moving smoothly.

The Food
Warm roasted garlic with crusty bread is a good start, and the classic bistro menu follows through with delicious renditions of old French favorites. Tender, piping-hot escargots swim in parsley sauce in a miniature copper pot; lovely goat cheese terrine, warm and wrapped in eggplant, anchors a salad studded with pine nuts and olives. Steak frites is served four ways; try it au poivre--a generous coating of crushed peppercorns gives the meat a spiky, full-bodied flavor, and the pepper sauce is a perfect foil for crispy, stubby frites. Another fave is bouillabaisse served in a cast-iron pot and brimming with seafood--a satisfying take on a classic.