Maijean

The Scene
Art Nouveau flourishes like the massive carved wood, copper-topped bar and swirling wall treatments feminize a romantic setting. Main dining has a stone fireplace and storefront windows overlooking sidewalk seating; a smaller blue room is country-French cozy. Tables are comfortably spaced; service is affable.

The Food
Chef-owner Nadia Tilkian (ex Barrington Country Bistro, Bistro 110) displays a deft hand with both bistro classics and her signature updates. For starters, exquisite steamed mussels in white wine-cream sauce demand sopping every drop with the crusty rolls. Traditional French onion soup gratinee is refreshingly unsalty. Juicy prime ribeye is dolloped with herbed butter and plated with crispy shoestring frites. You'll find the fresh fish on the specials list, like a light, lovely walleye with pea shoots, shiitakes and savory, rich mustard-dill beurre blanc. Peaches poached in champagne with a little starburst of anise angel food cake and lemongrass ice cream are a sublime finish.

Hits: The setting is romantic and comfortable, the kitchen reliable for both quality and variety.
Misses: A special salad with goat cheese ''flan'' was more like a fallen souffle.