Schwa

The Scene
The restaurant's gritty surroundings and drawn shades read ''Out of Business,'' but an intimate interior awaits. White linens top 10 cozy tables, crystal chandeliers hang in the two window niches, and the walls and tin ceiling glow a warm light green. Hip-hop beats coming from a semi-open kitchen rock the chefs and keep diners on low-key groove.

The Food
Chefs Michael Carlson and Nathan Klingbail emphasize organic ingredients and local growers on their seasonal menu of contemporary American dishes. Table conversation ultimately focuses on the presentation and ambitious flavors, beginning with the plump quail egg-filled ravioli in brown butter and sage sauce. For taste, there's the crunchy and subtly sweet pistachio crust of the monkfish, thanks to a butternut squash ragout and handy swoop of cranberry. For art, there's the vertical band of braised pork belly and sliced tenderloin climbing whimsically onto the shelf of a Villeroy and Boch plate.