A Mano

The Scene
The shotgun sardine box layout typical to groundfloor restaurants isn't here, thank goodness. Instead, this trattoria uses width to its advantage with enough space for a lengthy bar, carpeted lounge and central, exhibition kitchen. Low ceilings, metal railings and exposed brick add a gallery-esque feel--until the Mag Mile tourists wander in. Servers are swift, but don't always have answers.

The Food
A rotating BIN 36 wine list complements a strong cross-section of regional Italian cuisine, from crispy, woodfired pizza to handmade pasta. Of the housecured salumi, thinly sliced, sweet Culatello, or ''little rump'' ham, and rich Mole Salame spiced with chocolate cinnamon and ancho chiles are stars. Shrunken clams underwhelm a parsley- and caper-dressed pizza, despite an exciting presentation with shells cooked on the pie. Tangy tomatoes marry with ricotta salata for a tasty vegetarian alternative to meatballs in spaghetti. Gelato--especially creamy pumpkin--can't be denied.

Hits: A sizeable, yet well-edited and moderately priced selection of antipasti, salumi, pasta and pizza allows for sharing.

Misses: Still wines are only offered by the glass or half carafe, but perhaps that's by design. Sister wine bar BIN 36 is next door.