Lockwood Restaurant and Bar

Food and decor nails that continental cool found in hotels abroad but without forfeiting a grounded American style. The century-old opulence of the lobby is tempered by diaphanous curtains, colored acrylic panels and modern fixtures as guests pass into the restaurant space. Original flair remains in travertine marble and ornate chandeliers. Chef Phillip Foss jumps creatively between Italian and French, but without deviating from a hearty meat-starch-vegetable formula. Notable starters include lobster bisque that seems enriched but without cream. Entrees are substantial, like seared sea scallops paired with cauliflower and golden raisins, drizzled with browned butter. Serious-looking business types share space with post-theater groups and lively couples, keeping things tame but this side of dull.