Powerhouse

The Scene
Subtle banners signal the entrance on a dim side street. Inside, an entire foyer separates the bar-a lively, stylish, warehouse-like space--from the earth-toned, quiet and altogether calm dining room. Modern wall-to-wall carpeting softens steps; in fact, red drapes, upholstered booths and low ceilings all effectively dampen sound. Older couples and groups of business professionals enjoy the serenity.

The Food
The menu celebrates meat--pork and game--but executes even the heartiest dishes with finesse and without sacrificing elegance. Waitstaff warn of the sharp, raw garlic in a romaine, boar bacon, quail egg and fried crouton salad, but the result is somehow refined. Raw apples do little as a foil for a rich braised pork belly starter; a bitter orange foam better contrasts buttery sea scallops in another first course. Crispy nuggets of arctic char are terrific alongside sieved egg and fried caper sauce. Carnivores will find no gripe with succulent double cut pork chop.

Hits: Serenity is honored here, making concentrating on one's company, the excellent wine list and the thoughtful food a real pleasure.

Misses: With the exception of the bar, the decor takes no chances. A shame, as the original space must have had at least a few interesting warehouse details.