Rosebud Prime

The Scene
Drama drips from every inch of this well-appointed space, from the cascading burgundy curtains to the plush booths to the brass-fitted staircase sweeping to a private, second-floor dining room. Plumes of cigar smoke float woodsy notes from the front bar, where flatscreens broadcast the latest Cubs or Bears games. Maitre d's and servers fuss over every table--mostly moneyed suits and dolled-up women--defining what it means to offer VIP treatment.

The Food
This classy Italian restaurant won't be outdone by its siblings, even with a tighter steak-focused menu. Buttery king crab legs make frequent trips out of the kitchen, and equally delicious Oysters Rockefeller, though not as eye-pleasing, melt in your mouth with creamy spinach, garlic, Parmesan and crispy breadcrumbs. For beef, the bone-in Kansas City Strip is juicier and more tender than the mushroom-topped bone-in filet, a house signature. Sides, including pan-fried potatoes with jalapenos and cheesy cauliflower, are meant for sharing.

Hits: The team approach to service shines through. Expect touches like a maitre d' pulling out your table so you can slip easily into your booth or a manager filling your wine glass.

Misses: We'd take Sinatra or even Michael Buble any day over the clubby beats and sports broadcasts.