Cafe Bionda - Wicker Park

The Scene
When weather allows, the din of passing traffic can be heard through large, open windows at this laid-back trattoria. Indie-types from the neighborhood wander in and are seated at butcher paper and candle-topped tables in front of the dark wood paneled space. In back, a small bar sports a flat-screen TV in the corner and a few high-top tables for kicking back pre- or post-meal. Abstract pantings and a black tin ceiling add interest.
 
The Food
The by-the-books menu focuses on crowd-pleasing southern Italian dishes. First courses stand out--especially garlicky breadcrumb-stuffed mushrooms in lemony, herb-flecked cream sauce. Its namesake salad, an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink melange with hearts of palm and tangy-tart red wine vinaigrette, is memorable. Plate-sized veal Parmesan arrives caped in bubbly, browned mozzarella, but orecchiette is overcooked. When sliced, chicken saltimbocca reveals a whirl of crisp, salty prosciutto, sage and cheese. For dessert, housemade Joe's Italian ice-floating in Belvedere Cytrus-refreshes.
 
Hits: Portions are large, and leftovers reheat well.
 
Misses: Slow-cooked sauces, while nicely seasoned, sometimes lack the anticiated depth