Bustling North Center eatery fuses flavors from Hawaii, Asia and California in a beach-inspired setting.

The Scene
Mimicking sand and surf, this North Center restaurant oozes amber hues with hanging cylindrical lamps complemented by a palette of beige, orange and cornflower that pops in every corner. A room divider featuring a built-in fireplace warms windowside diners, while bamboo place mats and putty-colored seats keep an earthy vibe. A curved banquette loops the main dining room, leading up to a second-floor loft with more tables. Servers pace meals just right--even if initial seating waits are long.

The Food
Seafood stars on this New American menu reflecting Hawaiian, Asian and Californian flavors. Starters include chilled, gingery mashed potatoes laced with cod flakes and a trio of tuna tartares freshened by Thai cucumber salsa and ginger confit. Buttery seared scallops nest on green beans and apple-sweet risotto cooked perfectly al dente. A Parmesan tuille topping porcini-crusted salmon is an unexpected touch when paired with familiar grilled asparagus drizzled with soy-truffle sauce.