San Soo Gab San Sushi House

The Scene
Discreet, partitioned booths create a sense of privacy perfect for lovers' rendezvous, but the crowd at this Ravenswood staple is equal parts family and couples on dates. Smoke floats over charcoal grills at each table, with the smell of kalbi permeating the air, despite the numerous, powerful vents. Or grab a seat at the sushi bar and avoid the smoke entirely.

The Food
Barbecue lovers be forewarned: Get ready for a parade of food. A stunning dozen or more sides--romaine lettuce, green onions, glass noodles, kimchee, beets, fish, bean sprouts, baby bok choy, rice and more--accompany marinated meats such as beef short rib, ribeye, pork, chicken and adventurous options like broiled octopus or squid. A sweet soy, ginger marinade flavors the meat, sizzling and tender right off the grill. Fried dumplings are standout appetizers, but with this much food plus miso soup, you might not need them. (Photo by Peter Behle)