Costas - CLOSED

The Scene
While many Greektown restaurants encourage a boisterous atmosphere, Costa's is peaceful and sophisticated. Close tables fill two dining rooms, and Greek disco music plays in the background. Service is polite, but not ebullient--for example, saganaki (flaming fried Greek cheese) is served quietly, with no shouts of ''Opa!'' to be heard.

The Food
Large portions of Greek specialties start with outstanding appetizers: Dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) are huge and tasty, while stuffed, grilled calamari features a terrific presentation of two large calamari stuffed with cheese and herbs, then sliced and served on a bed of greens. Lamb and seafood are the highlighted entrees. Enormous lamb chops are broiled to perfection, while roast leg of lamb is cooked just right and served in thick, tender slices. Whole snapper and sea bass are simple--topped with olive oil, lemon and oregano. Greek diner standards (pastitsio, moussaka, etc.) are also standouts.