If you're not into trendy, you'll enjoy the nostalgic opulence of this special-occasion steak place.

The Scene
A pair of brass lions guards the expansive main dining room, dominated by dark wood, tapestry-backed booths, chandeliers and oversize brass-studded leather chairs. Frequent camera flashes signal birthdays and anniversaries.

The Food
Choose from six juicy aged and roasted prime-rib cuts, seasoned with Lawry's salt and sliced to order from roll-top stainless-steel carts. Bone-in options tend to add fat, so if you're looking for a plateful, try the ''beef bowl'' cut. The Lawry cut (with bone or without) is a happy medium. Whipped-cream horseradish provides sweet accompaniment. Dinners include ''spinning'' salad, creamy mashed potatoes with gravy and Yorkshire pudding. You'll feel pressured to order a la carte sides--try garden-fresh, plump buttered peas. For dessert, the signature chocolate bag is a must-try, filled with fluffy white-chocolate mousse and ripe, flavorful berries.