Blue Ridge Grill

The Scene
The North Georgia mountains come to Buckhead at this comfortably sophisticated and startlingly realistic replica of a hunting lodge. Log cabin walls, soaring wooden beams, a large stone fireplace and soft lighting help perpetuate the alpine fantasy. Service--delivered with professional, cheerful aplomb--is anything but countrified. The clientele is an upscale mix of business associates and dignified-looking couples.

The Food
Classic Southern and American dishes get the upscale treatment with largely winning results, albeit at expense-account prices. Try succulently tender filet mignon or New York strip with a side order of luscious bearnaise sauce. Georgia trout, a house specialty, is simple and impressively fresh. Skip Asian-influenced dishes, like the sea bass: They aren't executed with the same finesse. Side dishes are essential: Ethereal squash casserole and fat, juicy collards may just be better than your mama ever made. Gooey, not-too-sweet pecan pie is large enough for sharing at meal's end.