The very definition of a barbecue joint, this hidden gem is well worth a trip from almost anywhere.

The Scene
Opened more than half a century ago, this barbecue shack is straight out of central casting, from its run-down neighborhood to the red-and-white checkered tablecloths, wood paneling, straining AC units and burglar bars on the windows. Blue-collar regulars saddle up to the main dining room's wooden bar. Weathered waitresses provide proficient, friendly service at a leisurely gait, and address diners as ''honey'' and ''sugar.''

The Food
The diner's-eye-view of the kitchen is less than flattering, but there's barbecue magic at work back there. Pork ribs pack an exemplary heft and flavor, and barbecued beef, in sandwich or platter form, proves similarly pleasing. Homemade cornbread is just-right flaky; the sweet tea is addictive. Cole slaw and crinkle-cut fries are disappointing, but thin Brunswick stew fares much better. The menu also offers charburgers and hot dogs.