Rainbow Grocery

The Scene
Located in a natural foods grocery by the same name, this cubbyhole of a restaurant offers 14 tables and atmosphere that runs to wood grain and aromatherapy. People-watching is the chief distraction at lunch. The mix includes the earth mothers you expect and the bejeweled matrons you don't. Everyone looks virtuous. The servers are knowledgeable but, thankfully, don't proselytize.

The Food
The uneven vegetarian menu offers some hits, some misses, and few obvious guidelines for success. Guacamole is zesty and smooth; an accompanying salsa is gourmet-jar good. Though it sounds like a faux-meat travesty, the walnut loaf's roasted flavor and crumbly texture make it a surprise find. On the other hand, simple adzuki beans and rice could use a serious spice infusion, and an unassuming veggie quiche has a strange, ricotta-cheese texture. A killer dairy-free chocolate brownie saves the day.