A holy trinity of crystal chandeliers, smooth service and sumptuous food.

The Scene
Between the dark green-suited waiters and the hosts, the staff's food knowledge is staggering. Perhaps this is because Chef Josiah Citrin makes frequent appearances in the dining room to chat. Every meal is carefully administered and adroitly explained--equally welcome if you're a couple seeking romance or a larger party paying homage to the kitchen.

The Food
Surfer-dude-turned-uberchef Citrin has an uncanny way with vegetables and bright, herb-inflected flavors. The Santa Monica restaurant, named for the French word for lemon balm, brings local farm-fresh produce to center stage. Mandarin tomato soup floats a tiny brunoise of summer vegetables and a sweet garlic flan; a ragout of summer pole beans is gussied up with toasted almonds and orange tomatoes, and is paired with a crisp basmati rice cake; and supple white-corn ravioli is infused with the earthy flavor of summer truffles.