Manresa

The Scene
Though ranked among the most rarefied of American restaurants, this simple, attractive dining room's lack of affectation provides welcome comfort. The warm ambience--fresh flowers, white tablecloths, exposed wood beams--feels upscale village local; and while certainly refined and professional, staff here clearly care little for small-minded pretense. Patrons are visibly at ease: Collars are loosened, smiles are sincere, and dates and small clusters of diners stretch into heady lingering over top-tier wines and tasting menus that can number upwards of 18 courses. Oriental rugs add rich, red-inflected touches of color to the scene.

The Food
Chef David Kinch continues to thoughtfully tinker with convention and cuisine on an almost cellular level--literally. Already famous for his cooking pedigree (some of the world's finest kitchens, including El Bulli), his growing collection of Michelin stars and many other awards for his innovative new Catalan cuisine, Kinch has dug in deeper with his evolved use of ingredients from the restaurant's own biodynamic garden. Hand-picked produce, roots, sprouts, herbs and other day-fresh ingredients are shaped into playful, expert contrasts on the plate--sweet with savory, cool with warm. One mouthful of his seasonal cuisine can unpack into an intense, unique experience with layers of surprise. We particularly recommend not only the farm-fresh produce, but also his soups, foie gras dishes and anything with shellfish.

Hits: Chef Kinch's famous garden-fresh ingredients are as local, seasonal and exquisite as you can get and are best represented in the dish ''Into The Vegetable Garden...,'' a collection of the day's freshest textures and flavors.

Misses: Don't think you have to get the tasting menu (which takes several hours); two-to-three perfect dishes can provide ample perspective on the best of Kinch.