The Scene As the first eatery that opened in San Jose's Santana Row, Yankee Pier has settled in as the casual dinnertime playground for oyster-slurping Silicon Valley families. At lunchtime, the dining room is packed with shoppers laden with designer goods. Nautical touches, such as the lighthouse in the dining room, are a little heavy-handed, so the overall effect is Disney-does-New-England fish shack.
The Food Embracing New England tradition, the kitchen elevates the humble clambake, with mixed results. A rich, creamy rendition of clam chowder and perfectly fried Ipswich clams are archetypes of the region's fare. Raw bivalves, such as Hog Island oysters slicked with shallot-laden mignonette, shimmer with freshness. Less successful are dishes where California influence is evident, such as sesame-crusted ahi tuna in a thin mushroom broth and steamed mussels struggling under the weight of smoky Portuguese sausage. Save room for dessert; velvety butterscotch pudding must be just like Grandma makes up in heaven.
