SoMa outpost of this local north Indian mini-chain serves up no-frills chaat that's perfect for a to-go snack.

The Scene
Everything is oversized at this popular Indian eatery, from the monstrous revolving door to the mile-long open kitchen. Service vacillates between charming and perfunctory--fitting for a joint where diners take a numbered placard and choose their own tables. Service can be lacking, but again, a do-it-yourself atmosphere pervades.

The Food
Wraps stuffed with lamb kebab and tandoori chicken might be this beloved mini-chain's claim to fame, but those in-the-know run straight for the snacky bits called chaat. Chickpeas and potatoes form the backbone of these savories--spoon them into the some-assembly-required pani puri; they're doctored with yogurt and cayenne in the papri chaat. Charred naan (try the cauliflower or onion renditions) is ideal for mopping up tangy, rich chicken tikka masala, thick dal and baigan bhartha, a smoky-hot eggplant puree. Kheer, spiced rice pudding, goes well with a hot cup of masala chai to finish off the meal.