A charming Russian Hill eatery serving rich Mediterranean fare.

The Scene
The L-shaped space welcomes neighborhood locals with dim lighting and walls splashed in earth tones. Mirrors above a light-green banquette reflect a petite bar area, where gray-haired couples sip wine next to 30-somethings. Further back, a floor manager scopes the scene near a semi-exposed kitchen, swooping in to assist waitstaff.

The Food
Generous portions of mostly southern European dishes comprise a rotating menu. Diners craving a salt fix should order the cod brandade souffle, a dazzling and deceptively hearty appetizer. The tartare served three ways is a neat idea, but overpowered by a citrus tang that masks the natural flavors of the tuna, steak and fennel. Chef Ben de Vries used to cook at Mission's Anadalu and resurrects his signature dish: Coca Cola-braised pork shoulder, an indulgent entree coated in a candy-like glaze. Equally delicious is the osso buco, loaded with smoky lamb that's fall-off-the-bone tender.