Urban sophistication meets rustic tradition at this Northern Italian restaurant in the heart of the Financial District.

The Scene
A steel sign bearing the restaurant's name (an Italian expression that loosely translates to ''wow'') welcomes diners into this befittingly striking eatery. Soaring ceilings with blond-wood accents and a sleek, marble-topped bar add modern appeal to the 6,000-square-foot, historic warehouse space, which retains its 1912 brick wall. Partially carpeted flooring softens the din from the exhibition kitchen in back, where an eight-seat chef's table resides nearby. Well-versed servers easily transition between power-lunching daytime diners and the more languorous evening crowd: a mix of silver-haired society folk, small groups conducting business after five and well-dressed 30-something couples.

The Food
The seasonal menu takes diners on a culinary tour through Piedmont by way of Liguria and Provence. An array of meltingly tender crudo and house-cured salumi are simply plated to showcase the fresh flavors. Other highlights include the gorgonzola-butter-dressed ribeye and handmade, filled pastas, which are taken to new levels with the ricotta-and-chard-stuffed pansotti in a mouth-watering walnut-butter sauce.