A North Beach stand still delivers the Italian goods.

The Scene
Columbus Avenue gets its fair share of tourists and this North Beach institution, with its exposed wood beams and sleek design, is no exception. A wood-burning oven roars away at the center of an open kitchen, while white smock-clad servers scurry around the multiple dining areas providing warm, if perfunctory, service.

The Food
Make no mistake--the olive oil-drenched antipasti are the highlight of the meal. In high spring, plates include bright-green fava beans speckled by cubes of soft pecorino; sashimi-like tuna crudo with crunchy shaved artichoke salad; and grilled rabbit livers wrapped around skewers of fresh rosemary. Main courses spotlight seafood, with more than five varieties prepared in several ways, from roasted with fennel to braised with a spicy tomato broth.