The folks behind Hawthorne Lane go casual--but no means downscale--with a neo-American menu focusing on Northern California.

An natural theme dominates, with a tree-pattern front door opening into an earth-toned, woody space with green and brown banquettes and an antler chandelier; the editors of Dwell would approve. Decked-out down-towners gather around the space's centerpiece, a copper-accented oval bar lit by anemone-like lamps. The bill of fare provides a flavorful foundation for the earthy but elevated theme. Spicy onion soup lends an appealing bit of fire to a comfort favorite, while roasted half-duck on the bone is satisfying and meaty, its skin crackling with the appropriate crispness. Caramelized broccoli has a savory snap to it, and is apt accompaniment for just about any entree. Finishing up, the decadent banana cream pie brulee with banana-caramel-crunch ice cream or the three mini-ice cream sandwiches are more than worth saving room for to wrap t