Venticello

The Scene
A wood-fired brick oven, turning out equal parts warmth and coziness, crackles at the center of the bi-level dining room. A professional, easygoing staff treks up and down the staircase, navigating a close-knit pattern of wooden tables almost always crowded with upscale Nob Hill residents.

The Food
Familiar Italian classics with a sophisticated twist form the backbone of the menu. Strong first courses include cheese tortellini floating in a crystalline chicken stock; grilled eggplant rolled and topped with marinara and mascarpone; and bruschetta laid out on a pizzetta instead of the prototypical crostini. Entrees like chicken saltimbocca smothered in prosciutto, mozzarella and porcini sauce show off the kitchen's skills. There's also steamed orange roughy, and a subtle stuffed veal tenderloin with sage-flecked tomato sauce. Desserts include panna cotta.